gathering – Penguin Feats

Posted on 8 February 201528 September 2016 by TriniaB — Leave a comment

OMQG Bonnie Bucket Bag Sew Along….Part Three

We are getting closer to done with the Bonnie Bucket Bag! In this post, I have included some helpful tips when attaching the rounded bottom to the sides of your bag as well how to install purse feet to protect the bottom of your Bonnie Bucket Bag! Here we go…..

Stitch the two Main Exterior Panels right sides together along the sides leaving top and bottom open. Mark the bottom centers of each Main Exterior Panels by matching the side seams and folding the Main Exterior Panels in half. Keep your marks on the wrong side of the panels.

bottom panel layers — layering bottom panel

Layer the Bottom Panel parts and press the Stabilizer in between the woven interfacing and Basic Exterior Bottom Panel. Press the layers so the heavy stabilizer is in between and the fusible creates a fused edge around wrong side of the Bottom Panel. Mark the centers of each side of this panel.

If using purse feet on your Bonnie Bucket Bag, you will need to create a template. Measure a rectangle that is 2 inches smaller on the sides and 3 inches smaller on the ends from the Basic Exterior Bottom Panel.

Mark the corners of this template on the Bottom Panel with a small 1/8 inch X. Measure twice and mark once for this since you will be making your marks on the exterior of the fabric….but the marks will be covered by the purse feet if they are marked in the right place.

Match the center marks on your Bottom Panel and the center marks on your Main Exterior Panels and pin or clip the bottom to the Main Exterior. Use lots of pins or clips to keep the bottom secure so you can stitch without any puckers.

clip or pin bottom panel to main exterior

My tip for the next portion is to use your zipper foot to stitch the bottom panel to the main exterior. I first stitch to the right of my zipper foot using a basting stitch close to a ¼ inch seam allowance as I remove the clips and move around the bottom piece.

After I have basted around the bottom, I move my needle to the left of my zipper foot to stitch very close to the heavy stabilizer layer on the purse bottom. I use a 2.5 – 3 mm stitch length for this seam. This seam is close to the ½ inch seam allowance the pattern calls for.

Make your Handle and Handle Connectors according to the pattern directions.

Loop your Handle Connector through the O-ring or rectangle loop matching the raw ends. Using a zipper foot, stitch close to the rectangle loop through all layers of your Handle Connector to secure the connector and prevent shifting of the rectangle loops. Baste stitch the raw edges together. Stitch the Handle Connectors to the Main Exterior Panels at the side seam centers.

Because I am using purse feet on my Bonnie Bucket, I have cut an extra Bottom Stabilizer piece from Pellon Peltex Fusible Sabilizer (71F).

adding purse feet — what you need for purse feet

To install the purse feet you will need the extra Bottom Stabilizer piece from the Pellon Peltex Fusible (71F), some Fray Check or clear nail polish, 4 purse feet, and sharp point scissors or an awl.

First make a small slash at each of the markings you made with the Purse Feet Template. This slash should go through the Bottom Panel layers. Keep the slash to less than ¼ inch.

making slash — making a slash for inserting purse feet

Place a small dot of Fray Check or clear nail polish on one slash; insert the prongs through all layers so the foot portion covers the markings. I recommend working with the Fray Check or nail polish one foot at a time so it doesn’t dry the slash closed before you can insert the purse feet prongs.

On the wrong side of the Bottom Panel, separate the prongs and push tightly against the Bottom Panel to create a snug fit for the purse foot. Repeat for the other three purse feet.

After you have installed all purse feet, insert the extra Bottom Stabilizer piece into the wrong side of the bag. With the fusible side to the wrong side of the Bottom Panel, use a hot iron to press the stabilizer and fuse it to the Bottom Panel, covering the prongs of the purse feet. Use a piece of cloth between the iron and stabilizer to prevent scorching.

pressing extra bottom panel — yes…the iron is inside my bag

The outside of your Bonnie Bucket Bag is now complete.

The last steps to completing your bag will follow soon! Don’t forget to tag your photos as you make progress with your Bonnie Bucket Bag. Use #oahmqg #omqgBonnieBucket and #omqgsewalong and tag the guild with @oahumqg!! I look forward to seeing everyone’s Sew Along progress!!

OMQG Bonnie Bucket Bag Sew Along Part Two

OMQG Bonnie Bucket Bag Sew Along Part One

Posted on 2 February 201528 September 2016 by TriniaB — Leave a comment

OMQG Bonnie Bucket Bag Sew Along…Part Two

Let’s get sewing….

Two Main Exterior Panel stitched — Main Exterior Panel stitched

Now that you have all your pieces cut out, first stitch your main exterior panels right sides together. You will stitch one Main Exterior piece to one Basic Exterior piece as directed in the pattern. Press this seam open. Repeat for the other panels so you have two Main Exterior Panels. I had to press my seam to one side because of the bulk created by the pieced Main Exterior panel. For this reason, I topstitched along one edge of the seam only. You may choose to topstitch both sides of the seam for a more secure seam.

Measure and mark the exterior zipper pocket hole on the wrong side of one Main Exterior panel. Be sure to first mark the center of the panel to start your measurements from.

Pin your fusible facing (SF101) to the right side of the Main Exterior panel with the fusible side away from the right side of the Main Exterior panel.

From the wrong side of the Main Exterior Panel, stitch along the marked line.

Then, cut along the marked center line and diagonal lines.

I like to use a small rotary cutter and ruler to cut the center straight line, then using small sharp scissors I cut the diagonal lines. Turn the facing to the wrong side and press the pocket hole open. I use pins that can be ironed to hold my facing in place while pressing. Remember, the fusible side of the facing will now be to the wrong side of the Main Exterior panel, so once you press the layers they will hold in place and be difficult to remove.

The directions in the pattern are great for assembling the zipped welt pocket. The directions I have here are slightly different because I use Scotch Tape to hold my zipper in place. Please follow the directions in the pattern if you prefer not to use the tape method.

I was taught years ago by my seamstress Grandmother to use Scotch Tape when sewing zippers. Pinning has a tendency to distort the final stitching and the pins can prevent you from getting close to the zipper for good stitches. Scotch Tape has the perfect amount of adhesive and when stitched has a beautiful perforation that makes it so easy to remove from the backing with no remnants of tape left.

First center your pocket welt panel to the wrong side of the Main Exterior panel and pin in place on the front. Flip the Main Exterior panel over and center the zipper over the pocket welt panel, making

sure the metal ends do not align with the edge of the pocket hole where you will be stitching. Also make sure your zipper is facing away from you and toward the pocket welt panel. Place tape over all layers being sure to cross the zipper and pocket welt panel. Pin the very outer ends of the pocket welt panel.

Flip over to the right side of the Main Exterior panel and topstitch along the edge of the pocket hole. I like to increase my stitch length to 3 or 3.5 when topstitching. Using a zipper foot allows me to get close to the zipper without distorting my stitches as I go around the pocket opening. I start my stitching on one side and go around the first two corners. As I approach the bulk of the zipper slider, I stop my needle in the down position and remove a few of the basting stitches in the pocket welt panel in order to slide the zipper behind the zipper foot so I can continue around the last two corners and finish the topstitching.

Remove the remaining basting stitches in the pocket welt panel. Voila!! You have a double welt zipper pocket!

Stitch the pocket lining to the top and bottom of the pocket welt panel. Be sure you are stitching the pocket lining to the pocket welt panel and not the Main Exterior panel.

stitching pocket lining to pocket welt panel

Press the pocket lining starting from the top. Stitch up the sides of the pocket lining, folding the Main Exterior out of the way to access the pocket lining.

Fold over and press ½ inch of the top of the Bottom Strip. Line up the Bottom Strip with the bottom portion of the Main Exterior Panel, matching the raw edges of the Bottom Strip with the raw edges of the Main Exterior Panel. Pin the Bottom Strip in place.

Topstitch the pressed edge….

….and then baste the remaining edges to the Main Exterior Panel within a ¼ inch of the edge. Repeat for the other Main Exterior Panel. You will stitch through the pocket lining on one of the panels.

showing the wrong side of Main Exterior Panel

You have two Main Exterior Panels ready for bag assembly.

Don’t forget to tag your bags with #oahumqg , #omqgBonnieBucket, #omqgsewalong, #swoonpatterns, and @oahumqg . Looking forward to seeing everyone’s progress!!

OMQG Bonnie Bucket Bag Sew Along Part One

Posted on 28 January 201528 September 2016 by TriniaB — Leave a comment

OMQG Bonnie Bucket Sew Along…Part One

The OMQG Bonnie Bucket Bag Sew Along is about to begin! I am thrilled to be hosting this Sew Along for the guild, and hope everyone has fun making this fantastic bag!!I I know some have already completed their bag, but, I wanted to be sure everyone had their pattern before posting any information. Does everyone have the supplies required for the bag? Are there any questions about these supplies? Please post in the OMQG Facebook Group page if you have questions.

If you have an Instagram account please tag @oahumqg with your photos so they will show up on the Oahu Modern Quilt Guild website!! And be sure to use #oahmqg #omqgBonnieBucket and #omqgsewalong with your photos as we go through this together! The plan is to have our finished bags ready for Show & Tell at the March meeting, but remember, this Sew Along is at your own pace!

I would like to share some techniques I have learned which have made my bag making experience easier. With a little preparation, I like to focus on the assembly of my bag. This preparation helps me make more bags from the same pattern in the future, too. I will also be sharing some additional ideas and steps to make your bag a little different than the pattern. These additional steps are not required to finish your bag. I will note where the optional steps are so you can skip them if you prefer.

Now, down to the business of what goes into making the Bonnie Bucket Bag.

Pattern: You will need the pattern….Bonnie Bucket Bag…from Swoon Sewing Patterns. You can choose to download the pattern and print it at home, or order the printed pattern to be delivered through the mail. Yes…the second option is slower, but, the printed patterns are amazing.

Fabric: The pattern requires 1/2 yard of 44 inch wide quilting weight cotton for the main exterior fabric and 1/2 yard of 44 inch wide quilting weight cotton for the basic exterior fabric. You will need to add extra fabric to this if you want have directional fabric to match, or if you want to fussy cut some of your pieces. For the lining you will need 2/3 yard of 44 inch wide quilting weight cotton.

Stabilizer/Interfacing: The pattern calls for 2 1/2 yards of woven fusible interfacing (Pellon Shape-flex SF101 is recommended). You will also need 1/4 yard of heavy sew-in stabilizer (Pellon Peltex 70 is recommended. I will be using Pellon Peltex 71F which has a fusible side)

Notions & Hardware: In addition to the fabric you have selected for your bag, there is a variety of supplies and notions that go into making your bag unique and functional. Some of the supplies you will see in my photos may be different than what you have gathered for your bag. Please feel free to comment and ask questions about any of these supplies. I am only sharing the supplies I am familiar with and know how to use. If you have your own supplies and notions you are familiar with, please use those. There is no requirement for you to use the supplies and notions I am using to construct my bag.

I choose to use 40 wt. Aurifil Mako Cotton thread. It is a bit thicker than average, works well for assembling my bag, and looks great for the topstitching. And it comes in some GREAT colors!! A thicker thread will require a larger needle, so I use a Microtex or Topstitch size 90/14 needle.

The pattern says you will need a 15 inch all-purpose zipper. I am choosing to use a purse zipper which is very similar to an all-purpose zipper, except it has two sliders that meet head to head, so you can open your purse from either end.

There are lots of choices for the strap rings/loops that connect your purse to the strap. You can use O rings, rectangle rings/loops, or D rings. The rectangle loops I am using are 26mm/1 inch with a nickel finish.

I will be adding purse feet to the bottom of my bag. Near the end of the bag construction I will be showing the steps I use to attach these to the bag. You will need a Fray Check, nail polish, or similar product for application to the fabric when installing the purse feet. Purse feet also come in many sizes and colors, but I only add purse feet to bags that have a flat bottom where a piece of Peltex 71F is used. This type of super stiff interfacing is perfect for attaching the feet and provides a sturdy base for the feet to support. Again, this is an optional step and not required for you to finish your bag.

Preparing the pattern pieces (OPTIONAL):

I don’t like cutting my fabrics on the fold when a pattern piece requires it. I prefer to make a mirror image of the pattern piece and tape it together with the main pattern piece to make a whole pattern piece. This also enables me to fussy cut pattern pieces if I am using a print fabric, and makes it easier to match directional fabric.

The technique I use is to trace the pattern onto plain printer paper with a black ultra-fine sharpie. I turn the traced image over and retrace my lines onto the back of the paper so it becomes a mirror image of the pattern piece. The sharpie will bleed through the printer paper just enough for you to see the lines you traced, but, not so much to mark up the main pattern piece. Then, using double sided tape, I attach the pattern piece to main pattern piece where it says FOLD.

After I have traced, and taped all my pattern pieces and parts, I apply clear contact paper to the right side of the pattern pieces for stability. If you would like to use adhesive shelf liner, you can apply it to the back of the pattern piece so you can still see the pattern marks and directions. This makes the pattern pieces a little bit stiffer and they become tracing templates so I don’t need to use pins. I cut my pattern pieces out after the contact paper is firmly adhered to the paper.

Preparing your fabric (OPTIONAL):

For some the preparation of the fabric will be minimal. For others it will require more work depending on what you want your bag to look like. I have chosen to create 2 of the panels from pieced 60 degree triangles. It took a while to complete this panel, but, I think the look will be worth it.

fusing stabilizer to fabric — fusing fabric to shape-flex woven fusible

pattern templates — tracing pattern with frixion pen onto wrong side of fabric

I have also found it to be very helpful to iron the woven fusible to my fabric pieces BEFORE I cut them out. There are some exceptions to this with this pattern: The Bottom Panel, Handle Connectors, Pocket Panel, Bottom Strip and Pocket Welts. Basically the Main & Basic Exterior Panels and lining pieces are the only fabrics that I have ironed the woven fusible to. Then, I use a Frixion pen to trace the pattern pieces on the wrong side (the side with fusible on it) before cutting. I am terrible with pins and constantly poking myself with them, and this eliminates the need for pins when cutting out pattern pieces. The pattern pieces last longer to without all the pin holes in them. Also, this technique eliminates one step of cutting since the woven fusible interfacing is already ironed onto the fabric. WIN!!WIN!!

So, hopefully everyone will have their fabric cut out, and all the interfacing fused and ready for the first steps to constructing the bag! I will announce on the OMQG Facebook Group page when the next steps are posted so everyone can follow along. I can’t wait to see all teh different Bonnie’s we will be making…..let’s get stitchin’!!

everything ready for next step — all my pieces cut out and prepared….ready to assemble a Bonnie Bucket Bag!

OMQG Bonnie Bucket Sew Along:

Gathering supplies and prepping for assembly

Exterior and double welt pocket

Bottom & handle

Lining and finishing