Look how much fun you can have with fabric if you split up the pleated panel with different fabrics. I like to split pleats because it makes creating the pleat much easier and the pleat is much crisper.
At step 6in the Della instructions, instead of having one long piece of fabric you will need to create each section for pleating including the fusible interfacing.
From the fabric you will need to cut
-2 pieces 2 ½ inches by 8 ½ inches
-4 pieces 4 ¾ inches by 8 ½ inches
-1 piece 11 ¼ inches by 8 ½ inches
From the fusible woven interfacing you will need to cut
-2 pieces 2 ¼ inches by 8 ½ inches
-4 pieces 4 ¼ inches by 8 ½ inches
-1 piece 10 ¾ inches by 8 ½ inches
First fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each piece centering it so there is a ¼ inch seam allowance along the 8 ½ inch edge of each piece. Each small 2 ½ inch piece of fabric will only need a ¼ inch seam allowance along one of the 8 ½ inch edges.
Arrange your pieces so you have 1 small piece on each end, 2 medium pieces next to each of those with the largest piece in the center.
Match the edges with seam allowance right sides together. Pin or clip in place. I like to use lots of clips because I cannot poke my fingers with them!!
Stitch your edges together with 1/4 inch seam allowance getting close to the interfacing, but, try not to stitch on the interfacing as it may bulk up the finished pleat.
From the wrong side, press each seam to set.
From the right side, press the seam allowances to one side.
Press each seam with wrong sides together trying to create a straight pleat with the seam centered and fabric on each side.
Topstitch each pleat at 1/8 inch from pressed edge.
You now have the panel with pleats and are ready to mark and finish following the pattern instructions.
You can continue with the pattern instructions where it says…
“Now, fold the entire Pleated Panel……”
I have created a PDF file for download if you want to try creating the split panel for Della while offline. Get the tutorial in PDF here.
This will be the last part of the OMQG Sew Along for the Bonnie Bucket Bag. Don’t forget to tag your photos as you make progress with your Bonnie Bucket Bag. Use #oahmqg #omqgBonnieBucket and #omqgsewalong and tag the guild with @oahumqg!! I am looking forward to seeing everyone’s Sew Along progress!! We should be seeing some finished bags soon. Don’t forget to bring your bag to the March meeting!!!
The first part of assembling the lining is sewing the zipper. Sandwich your 15 inch zipper between the Top & Bottom Lining Main Panels with the zipper facing the Top Lining Main Panel. Stitch close to the zipper. Using a zipper foot makes this easier and allows you to get close to the zipper with a straight seam.
Repeat for the other side of zipper. You should have something that looks like this….
Open your zipper half way and pin the right sides of the lining together. Stitch the sides leaving the bottom open. Also be sure to leave an opening below the zipper on one side of the lining that will be used for turning your bag later. I forgot to leave this open and had to get the seam ripper out to create the opening. Not fun!
You will stitch through the zipper ends when you stitch the lining sides. Backstitch over the zipper to secure the seam. Trim the zipper ends if they extend beyond the seam allowance.
Mark the centers of your Bottom Lining by folding in half each way and making a small mark within the seam allowance area. Mark the centers at the bottom of your Main Lining by matching the side seams, folding the Main Lining Panels and marking within the seam allowance area at the fold.
Match the marks from your Main Lining to the marks on the Bottom Lining first when pinning or clipping. Then pin or clip securely the entire circle around the Bottom Lining.
Stitch this seam as you did the Exterior Bottom Panel of the bag earlier by first basting at ¼ inch and then again at ½ inch to create a smooth seam. There is no need to use a zipper foot for this seam since the bulk from the heavy stabilizer isn’t in the lining.
Follow the directions in part 8 of pattern to finish your bag. The exterior of the bag will be inside the lining. The right sides of the lining and exterior will be together. Match the side seams and raw edges of the top of the lining and the top of the exterior. Pin or clip in place and stitch.
Pull the Bottom Exterior of the bag through the opening in the lining first as this will make it easier to turn the entire bag.
After your bag is turned, press the top rim of the bag and use lots of pins or clips to help with topstitching. Pressing with the iron can help flatten this edge for easier topstitching.
Again, I increased my stitch length to 3mm for the topstitching.
Stitch your handle ends to the rings or loops on your bag. Be sure to backstitch to secure the handles to the loops. Stitch first at the edge of the fold and then stitch again close to the ring or loop to help prevent shifting.
Whipstitch the opening in the lining closed….and you have a finished Bonnie Bucket Bag!
Please remember to share your images on Instagram and on the OMQG Facebook Group page!
There are many other patterns with great instructions available at Swoon Sewing Patterns. Please visit the site for some great patterns as well as hardware supplies for many of the bags.
We are getting closer to done with the Bonnie Bucket Bag! In this post, I have included some helpful tips when attaching the rounded bottom to the sides of your bag as well how to install purse feet to protect the bottom of your Bonnie Bucket Bag! Here we go…..
Stitch the two Main Exterior Panels right sides together along the sides leaving top and bottom open. Mark the bottom centers of each Main Exterior Panels by matching the side seams and folding the Main Exterior Panels in half. Keep your marks on the wrong side of the panels.
Layer the Bottom Panel parts and press the Stabilizer in between the woven interfacing and Basic Exterior Bottom Panel. Press the layers so the heavy stabilizer is in between and the fusible creates a fused edge around wrong side of the Bottom Panel. Mark the centers of each side of this panel.
If using purse feet on your Bonnie Bucket Bag, you will need to create a template. Measure a rectangle that is 2 inches smaller on the sides and 3 inches smaller on the ends from the Basic Exterior Bottom Panel.
Mark the corners of this template on the Bottom Panel with a small 1/8 inch X. Measure twice and mark once for this since you will be making your marks on the exterior of the fabric….but the marks will be covered by the purse feet if they are marked in the right place.
Match the center marks on your Bottom Panel and the center marks on your Main Exterior Panels and pin or clip the bottom to the Main Exterior. Use lots of pins or clips to keep the bottom secure so you can stitch without any puckers.
My tip for the next portion is to use your zipper foot to stitch the bottom panel to the main exterior. I first stitch to the right of my zipper foot using a basting stitch close to a ¼ inch seam allowance as I remove the clips and move around the bottom piece.
After I have basted around the bottom, I move my needle to the left of my zipper foot to stitch very close to the heavy stabilizer layer on the purse bottom. I use a 2.5 – 3 mm stitch length for this seam. This seam is close to the ½ inch seam allowance the pattern calls for.
Make your Handle and Handle Connectors according to the pattern directions.
Loop your Handle Connector through the O-ring or rectangle loop matching the raw ends. Using a zipper foot, stitch close to the rectangle loop through all layers of your Handle Connector to secure the connector and prevent shifting of the rectangle loops. Baste stitch the raw edges together. Stitch the Handle Connectors to the Main Exterior Panels at the side seam centers.
Because I am using purse feet on my Bonnie Bucket, I have cut an extra Bottom Stabilizer piece from Pellon Peltex Fusible Sabilizer (71F).
To install the purse feet you will need the extra Bottom Stabilizer piece from the Pellon Peltex Fusible (71F), some Fray Check or clear nail polish, 4 purse feet, and sharp point scissors or an awl.
First make a small slash at each of the markings you made with the Purse Feet Template. This slash should go through the Bottom Panel layers. Keep the slash to less than ¼ inch.
Place a small dot of Fray Check or clear nail polish on one slash; insert the prongs through all layers so the foot portion covers the markings. I recommend working with the Fray Check or nail polish one foot at a time so it doesn’t dry the slash closed before you can insert the purse feet prongs.
On the wrong side of the Bottom Panel, separate the prongs and push tightly against the Bottom Panel to create a snug fit for the purse foot. Repeat for the other three purse feet.
After you have installed all purse feet, insert the extra Bottom Stabilizer piece into the wrong side of the bag. With the fusible side to the wrong side of the Bottom Panel, use a hot iron to press the stabilizer and fuse it to the Bottom Panel, covering the prongs of the purse feet. Use a piece of cloth between the iron and stabilizer to prevent scorching.
The outside of your Bonnie Bucket Bag is now complete.
The last steps to completing your bag will follow soon! Don’t forget to tag your photos as you make progress with your Bonnie Bucket Bag. Use #oahmqg #omqgBonnieBucket and #omqgsewalong and tag the guild with @oahumqg!! I look forward to seeing everyone’s Sew Along progress!!
Now that you have all your pieces cut out, first stitch your main exterior panels right sides together. You will stitch one Main Exterior piece to one Basic Exterior piece as directed in the pattern. Press this seam open. Repeat for the other panels so you have two Main Exterior Panels. I had to press my seam to one side because of the bulk created by the pieced Main Exterior panel. For this reason, I topstitched along one edge of the seam only. You may choose to topstitch both sides of the seam for a more secure seam.
Measure and mark the exterior zipper pocket hole on the wrong side of one Main Exterior panel. Be sure to first mark the center of the panel to start your measurements from.
Pin your fusible facing (SF101) to the right side of the Main Exterior panel with the fusible side away from the right side of the Main Exterior panel.
From the wrong side of the Main Exterior Panel, stitch along the marked line.
Then, cut along the marked center line and diagonal lines.
I like to use a small rotary cutter and ruler to cut the center straight line, then using small sharp scissors I cut the diagonal lines. Turn the facing to the wrong side and press the pocket hole open. I use pins that can be ironed to hold my facing in place while pressing. Remember, the fusible side of the facing will now be to the wrong side of the Main Exterior panel, so once you press the layers they will hold in place and be difficult to remove.
The directions in the pattern are great for assembling the zipped welt pocket. The directions I have here are slightly different because I use Scotch Tape to hold my zipper in place. Please follow the directions in the pattern if you prefer not to use the tape method.
I was taught years ago by my seamstress Grandmother to use Scotch Tape when sewing zippers. Pinning has a tendency to distort the final stitching and the pins can prevent you from getting close to the zipper for good stitches. Scotch Tape has the perfect amount of adhesive and when stitched has a beautiful perforation that makes it so easy to remove from the backing with no remnants of tape left.
First center your pocket welt panel to the wrong side of the Main Exterior panel and pin in place on the front. Flip the Main Exterior panel over and center the zipper over the pocket welt panel, making
sure the metal ends do not align with the edge of the pocket hole where you will be stitching. Also make sure your zipper is facing away from you and toward the pocket welt panel. Place tape over all layers being sure to cross the zipper and pocket welt panel. Pin the very outer ends of the pocket welt panel.
Flip over to the right side of the Main Exterior panel and topstitch along the edge of the pocket hole. I like to increase my stitch length to 3 or 3.5 when topstitching. Using a zipper foot allows me to get close to the zipper without distorting my stitches as I go around the pocket opening. I start my stitching on one side and go around the first two corners. As I approach the bulk of the zipper slider, I stop my needle in the down position and remove a few of the basting stitches in the pocket welt panel in order to slide the zipper behind the zipper foot so I can continue around the last two corners and finish the topstitching.
Remove the remaining basting stitches in the pocket welt panel. Voila!! You have a double welt zipper pocket!
Stitch the pocket lining to the top and bottom of the pocket welt panel. Be sure you are stitching the pocket lining to the pocket welt panel and not the Main Exterior panel.
Press the pocket lining starting from the top. Stitch up the sides of the pocket lining, folding the Main Exterior out of the way to access the pocket lining.
Fold over and press ½ inch of the top of the Bottom Strip. Line up the Bottom Strip with the bottom portion of the Main Exterior Panel, matching the raw edges of the Bottom Strip with the raw edges of the Main Exterior Panel. Pin the Bottom Strip in place.
Topstitch the pressed edge….
….and then baste the remaining edges to the Main Exterior Panel within a ¼ inch of the edge. Repeat for the other Main Exterior Panel. You will stitch through the pocket lining on one of the panels.
You have two Main Exterior Panels ready for bag assembly.
Don’t forget to tag your bags with #oahumqg , #omqgBonnieBucket, #omqgsewalong, #swoonpatterns, and @oahumqg . Looking forward to seeing everyone’s progress!!