In September I attended the first ever SewPro Convention. I learned a lot and met so many fantastic people. Among them was Anne Beier of Hudson Valley Quilts. I feel so fortunate to have connected with her! She is an energetic and studious sewist. I love her inquisitive nature and her ability to turn her ideas into words.
This is why I feel so lucky to be featured on her blog. Not only have we become friends, but we are collaborative colleagues now.
Please visit Anne’s blog if you want to get to know me and check out the fabulous giveaway we are offering together.
I am also offering a couple of Half Square Triangle [HST] assembly tips if you are interested in working with HSTs.
There are so many ways to make HSTs. You can make them one at a time, two at a time, 4 at a time and even 8 or more at a time! I prefer to make mine 2 at at time. For me, this way works best because there is less waste and not as much need for squaring up. I like using this method for HSTs smaller than 5 inches because it requires no marking.
One of the features I love about my Bernina is the measurements marked on my sewing table. So I use the 1/4 inch mark to line up the tape with the edge of my 1/4 inch foot.
Place a 4 or 5 inch piece of painter’s tape or washi tape on the table of your sewing machine making sure to line it up with the edge of your 1/4 inch foot.
Set up your squares in pairs, Right Sides Together (RST) with corners lined up.
Start by aligning the back corner of your square pair with the edge of your presser foot. Then align the opposite corner with the edge of the tape, while keeping this corner aligned with the tape, stitch your seam.
You can chain piece the HSTs by aligning the next square with the edge of the presser foot and tape. I like to pull about an inch of thread between each square.
To stitch on the other side of center, turn squares around and align the corners with the seam you already stitched to the left of the presser foot.
To separate your HSTs, cut between the seams by aligning your ruler with the two opposite corners.
Trim the ‘dog ears’ of each HST by cutting the corners at the seam perpendicular to the outside raw edge. When pressed open or to one side the corners will not add bulk to your seams because they are gone.
Enjoy making your HSTs. Please visit Anne at Hudson Valley Quilts to learn a little more about me!
A new pattern and a giveaway…all wrapped in one for the season.
It’s getting cold outside and what would be better to make than something to keep you warm, relax your tired muscles, and make you feel cozy? A microwavable heat pack made with all natural flax seed and cotton fabrics.
At the end of this tutorial I will be giving away a kit so you can make your very own with the cute organic penguin flannel from Cloud 9 fabrics.
1 FQ lining fabric- 100% cotton woven (muslin or kona)
approximately 12 ounces natural raw whole flax seeds
100% cotton thread (30 wt quilting thread)
Cut 2 main fabric & 2 lining fabric placing template on fold.
Place 1 lining on 1 main fabric piece. Repeat for second piece.
Place layers with right sides of main fabric together lining up all corners and edges.
Stitch 1/4 inch seam, leaving a 4-5 inch opening at top center of heat pack.
Clip inner corners making sure not to clip threads.
Turn right side out.
Using a stitch length of 3 or 3.5, edge stitch around seam making sure to back stitch at start and end of opening at top.
Mark your top stitching to create the cells for the flax seed to move around. Keep the stitching at least 1 inch away from the edges of the heat pack.
Stitch along your marked lines securing the stitches at the beginning and end of each line.
Fill the heat pack with flax seed. I have found that a large smoothie straw helps get the flax seed in the hard to reach areas. A funnel can be used. I created a funnel using a paper plate and straw.
Try to fill the heat pack as full as possible moving it around a lot to help the seeds settle into all the corners. Using pins or clips to hold the opening closed, fold over the raw edge, toward the inside of the opening and stitch the opening closed making sure to back stitch at the beginning and end.
In order to warm, place in microwave and heat in 30 second intervals. Remove between each interval and move around so no area of the flax seeds get over heated. It could take 3 to 5 intervals depending on the power of your microwave.
I don’t recommend adding oils or fragrances to the filling since the heat pack will be placed in the microwave.
This heat pack can also be frozen for a cold pack. Just place in a ziploc bag in the freezer and use as needed.
I am linking up with Giveaway Day at Sew Mama Sew. Be sure to visit and check out all the other great giveaways!
Now for the giveaway! Wouldn’t you like to make your very own hot/cold pack?
This kit has enough fabric & flax seed to make two…so you can make one hot and one cold!
I love these packs. I have 2 in my freezer and one always ready to microwave for my sore achy muscles. When my muscles are tight they get the hot pack and when they just hurt they get the cold pack. I love to use my cold pack on my neck when I get headaches!
Leave a comment and tell me what you prefer for your sore muscles….hot, cold, or both. Please be sure to leave an email address so you can be contacted if you win.
Comments will be closed on December 11th at 5pm PST. A random number will be chosen from the comments and announced on Monday, December 12th at noon PST. This giveaway is open in the USA only.
***The winner of the giveaway is Cathy C. Thank you everyone for leaving comments. Whether you like hot or cold or both, I hope you will make more than one so you can have a hot & cold pack for all those aches & pains.
If you make one of these hot or cold packs from the tutorial be sure to share on social media using the #penguinfeatshotandcold and tag me @penguinfeats
I developed this pattern for potholders when I couldn’t find any terry potholders that were thick enough for me to use without feeling the burn. It seems all the potholders are cotton fabric with a thin layer of padding…and the cotton fabric doesn’t wash up as nice as the terry cotton.
The Fabric Box for the potholders is made using this tutorial from Seaside Stitches. I cut my fabric squares at 18 inches and stitch 4 inch corner triangles since I used a larger fabric square. I find this size to be perfect for holding 4 potholders and a couple towels.
1 bath towel [I recommend a very inexpensive 100% cotton towel. Heavy thick towels are too thick to quilt. Some towels are big enough to cut 8 potholders from.]
Cotton batting [1 layer 1oo% cotton batting the same size as your towel]
Cotton thread 40 or 50 wt.
1 Fat Quarter of fabric A for pockets
½ yard of fabric B for bias binding (or 3 yards bias binding)
Lay the towel out flat with single layer of batting on top. Fold the towel and batting in half with the batting in the center. If there is a non terry edge to the towel, don’t layer this part and don’t quilt this area.
Pin baste in place.
Using a long ruler, mark one diagonal line with painters tape.
Using a medium stitch (about 3 mm) stitch along the tape line.
Using a seam guide, stitch lines 1 inch apart over entire towel surface.
Don’t stitch on the non-terry part of the towel.
*using a walking foot is very helpful to get even lines without puckers or folds.
Using a long ruler, mark one line perpendicular to the stitched lines with painters tape. Using a medium stitch (about 3 mm) stitch along the tape line.
Using a seam guide, stitch lines 1 inch apart over entire towel surface.
*if you want to have diamonds, mark this line at 60 degrees instead of 90 degrees.
Download and print the template. Be sure to print at actual size or the potholder base will be too small.
Mark outline of the potholder base using a thick marker.
It helps to stitch just inside the marked line to prevent stretching and unraveling of the terry cotton.
Cut the potholder base along the marked line. Don’t cut inside or outside the line, cut along the marked line.
Cut 6 inch wide strips from Fabric A. Press in half lengthwise so you have 3 inch wide strips.
Topstitch along folded edge at ¼ inch.
Cut the strips into 5 1/4 inch lengths.
Cut 1 ¾ inch bias strips from fabric B. I recommend the 25 mm bias tape maker for the potholders.
Join strips to make one continuous strip. Press the seams open and trim ears.
Using bias tape maker press the bias strip.
Pin pockets to potholder base matching side edges and top edges keeping the folded edges straight. Baste pockets to the potholder base with 1/8 inch seam. Trim corners off pockets to match potholder base.
Beginning on straight side, stitch bias tape to potholder front using ¼ inch seam matching the raw edges of the potholder with the raw edge of the bias tape.
Trim the ends of the bias binding so the overlap is the same length as the width of the bias binding.
Join the ends of the bias tape by stitching across the outside corners.
Stitch down the remaining section of bias binding using ¼ inch seam.
Fold bias tape over raw edge of potholder base. Stitch bias tape down on potholder back using ¼ inch seam.
And now for the giveaway…yes…I will be giving the cute little box and potholders to one lucky Instagram follower! If you want to have a chance to win this lovely set do just two little things…
1. Follow PenguinFeats on Instagram
2. Repost the giveaway pic on Instagram using #handswontburn and tag @penguinfeats
I will randomly select one person to send the potholder set to. This giveaway will end 10 April 2016 at midnight HST. Open internationally.
The giveaway has closed. Thank you for participating! And the winner is…..
It is Aloha Friday here and the sky is blue! I put together a fun pineapple block yesterday and am posting the pattern and some directions here if you want to put one together too. It has a lot of little pieces that give this pineapple lots of texture just like the juicy pineapples I buy at the local markets.
First you will need to know how to put together Half Square Triangles (HSTs). There is a little bit of instruction in the pdf file, but, it is not detailed. This pattern uses the traditional method for putting HSTs together and I recommend the tutorial at Blossom Heart Quilts.
First you will need to put together the dark yellow HSTs by putting together 5 pairs of dark yellow fabrics and creating 10 HSTs.
You will take 4 of those HSTs to make the dark yellow/light yellow HSTs. Trim the light yellow fabric to the same size as the dark yellow HSTs.
Draw a line on the light yellow and place right sides together with one of the dark yellow HSTs. Make sure to place your drawn line perpendicular to the dark yellow HST. Stitch a 1/4 inch seam on each side of this line. Cut on the drawn line to separate the HSTs and press seams open. Repeat 3 more times to make 8 of these finished HSTs.
Next you will create 2 light yellow/dark yellow HSTS. Take 1 yellow square and 1 dark yellow square and create 2 HSTs.
Trim 2 background squares to the same size as the dark yellow/light yellow HSTs. This will make approximately a 2 1/8 inch square.
Draw a line corner to corner on the back of the background fabric and align it perpendicular to the dark yellow/light yellow HST with the fabrics right sides together. Stitch a 1/4 inch seam on each side of the line and cut on the drawn line to separate the HSTs. Repeat to make 2 more HSTs.
Trim 2 background squares to the same size as the finished HSTs. This should make all your squares approximately 1 3/4 inch.
Additionally you will need 1 HST made up of the light yellow and background fabric. Trim to the finished HST size of 1 3/4 inch square. Also take one of the leftover HSTs with 2 dark yellow fabrics and trim to the finished HST size of approximately 1 3/4 inch square. Cut this HST in half on the diagonal to create the top center triangle of the pineapple bottom.
Sew the pineapple bottom together in rows on the diagonal as shown in the pattern. Stitch the triangle pieces to the corners of the pineapple bottom to extend the block out.
Now you can create the paper pieced top and add the triangle pieces to the corners of it as well. Trim the pineapple top 1/4 inch below the dotted line where it says to attach the pineapple bottom. Trim the pineapple bottom to be even with the top center triangle.
Match seams and sew a 1/4 inch seams to attach the pineapple top and bottom. I prefer to press all my seams open, but you can press the seams to what is comfortable for you.
Please connect to the Penguin Feats Newsletter to get the PDF pattern for the Piece by Piece PIneapple.
Look how much fun you can have with fabric if you split up the pleated panel with different fabrics. I like to split pleats because it makes creating the pleat much easier and the pleat is much crisper.
At step 6in the Della instructions, instead of having one long piece of fabric you will need to create each section for pleating including the fusible interfacing.
From the fabric you will need to cut
-2 pieces 2 ½ inches by 8 ½ inches
-4 pieces 4 ¾ inches by 8 ½ inches
-1 piece 11 ¼ inches by 8 ½ inches
From the fusible woven interfacing you will need to cut
-2 pieces 2 ¼ inches by 8 ½ inches
-4 pieces 4 ¼ inches by 8 ½ inches
-1 piece 10 ¾ inches by 8 ½ inches
First fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each piece centering it so there is a ¼ inch seam allowance along the 8 ½ inch edge of each piece. Each small 2 ½ inch piece of fabric will only need a ¼ inch seam allowance along one of the 8 ½ inch edges.
Arrange your pieces so you have 1 small piece on each end, 2 medium pieces next to each of those with the largest piece in the center.
Match the edges with seam allowance right sides together. Pin or clip in place. I like to use lots of clips because I cannot poke my fingers with them!!
Stitch your edges together with 1/4 inch seam allowance getting close to the interfacing, but, try not to stitch on the interfacing as it may bulk up the finished pleat.
From the wrong side, press each seam to set.
From the right side, press the seam allowances to one side.
Press each seam with wrong sides together trying to create a straight pleat with the seam centered and fabric on each side.
Topstitch each pleat at 1/8 inch from pressed edge.
You now have the panel with pleats and are ready to mark and finish following the pattern instructions.
You can continue with the pattern instructions where it says…
“Now, fold the entire Pleated Panel……”
I have created a PDF file for download if you want to try creating the split panel for Della while offline. Get the tutorial in PDF here.
This will be the last part of the OMQG Sew Along for the Bonnie Bucket Bag. Don’t forget to tag your photos as you make progress with your Bonnie Bucket Bag. Use #oahmqg #omqgBonnieBucket and #omqgsewalong and tag the guild with @oahumqg!! I am looking forward to seeing everyone’s Sew Along progress!! We should be seeing some finished bags soon. Don’t forget to bring your bag to the March meeting!!!
The first part of assembling the lining is sewing the zipper. Sandwich your 15 inch zipper between the Top & Bottom Lining Main Panels with the zipper facing the Top Lining Main Panel. Stitch close to the zipper. Using a zipper foot makes this easier and allows you to get close to the zipper with a straight seam.
Repeat for the other side of zipper. You should have something that looks like this….
Open your zipper half way and pin the right sides of the lining together. Stitch the sides leaving the bottom open. Also be sure to leave an opening below the zipper on one side of the lining that will be used for turning your bag later. I forgot to leave this open and had to get the seam ripper out to create the opening. Not fun!
You will stitch through the zipper ends when you stitch the lining sides. Backstitch over the zipper to secure the seam. Trim the zipper ends if they extend beyond the seam allowance.
Mark the centers of your Bottom Lining by folding in half each way and making a small mark within the seam allowance area. Mark the centers at the bottom of your Main Lining by matching the side seams, folding the Main Lining Panels and marking within the seam allowance area at the fold.
Match the marks from your Main Lining to the marks on the Bottom Lining first when pinning or clipping. Then pin or clip securely the entire circle around the Bottom Lining.
Stitch this seam as you did the Exterior Bottom Panel of the bag earlier by first basting at ¼ inch and then again at ½ inch to create a smooth seam. There is no need to use a zipper foot for this seam since the bulk from the heavy stabilizer isn’t in the lining.
Follow the directions in part 8 of pattern to finish your bag. The exterior of the bag will be inside the lining. The right sides of the lining and exterior will be together. Match the side seams and raw edges of the top of the lining and the top of the exterior. Pin or clip in place and stitch.
Pull the Bottom Exterior of the bag through the opening in the lining first as this will make it easier to turn the entire bag.
After your bag is turned, press the top rim of the bag and use lots of pins or clips to help with topstitching. Pressing with the iron can help flatten this edge for easier topstitching.
Again, I increased my stitch length to 3mm for the topstitching.
Stitch your handle ends to the rings or loops on your bag. Be sure to backstitch to secure the handles to the loops. Stitch first at the edge of the fold and then stitch again close to the ring or loop to help prevent shifting.
Whipstitch the opening in the lining closed….and you have a finished Bonnie Bucket Bag!
Please remember to share your images on Instagram and on the OMQG Facebook Group page!
There are many other patterns with great instructions available at Swoon Sewing Patterns. Please visit the site for some great patterns as well as hardware supplies for many of the bags.
We are getting closer to done with the Bonnie Bucket Bag! In this post, I have included some helpful tips when attaching the rounded bottom to the sides of your bag as well how to install purse feet to protect the bottom of your Bonnie Bucket Bag! Here we go…..
Stitch the two Main Exterior Panels right sides together along the sides leaving top and bottom open. Mark the bottom centers of each Main Exterior Panels by matching the side seams and folding the Main Exterior Panels in half. Keep your marks on the wrong side of the panels.
Layer the Bottom Panel parts and press the Stabilizer in between the woven interfacing and Basic Exterior Bottom Panel. Press the layers so the heavy stabilizer is in between and the fusible creates a fused edge around wrong side of the Bottom Panel. Mark the centers of each side of this panel.
If using purse feet on your Bonnie Bucket Bag, you will need to create a template. Measure a rectangle that is 2 inches smaller on the sides and 3 inches smaller on the ends from the Basic Exterior Bottom Panel.
Mark the corners of this template on the Bottom Panel with a small 1/8 inch X. Measure twice and mark once for this since you will be making your marks on the exterior of the fabric….but the marks will be covered by the purse feet if they are marked in the right place.
Match the center marks on your Bottom Panel and the center marks on your Main Exterior Panels and pin or clip the bottom to the Main Exterior. Use lots of pins or clips to keep the bottom secure so you can stitch without any puckers.
My tip for the next portion is to use your zipper foot to stitch the bottom panel to the main exterior. I first stitch to the right of my zipper foot using a basting stitch close to a ¼ inch seam allowance as I remove the clips and move around the bottom piece.
After I have basted around the bottom, I move my needle to the left of my zipper foot to stitch very close to the heavy stabilizer layer on the purse bottom. I use a 2.5 – 3 mm stitch length for this seam. This seam is close to the ½ inch seam allowance the pattern calls for.
Make your Handle and Handle Connectors according to the pattern directions.
Loop your Handle Connector through the O-ring or rectangle loop matching the raw ends. Using a zipper foot, stitch close to the rectangle loop through all layers of your Handle Connector to secure the connector and prevent shifting of the rectangle loops. Baste stitch the raw edges together. Stitch the Handle Connectors to the Main Exterior Panels at the side seam centers.
Because I am using purse feet on my Bonnie Bucket, I have cut an extra Bottom Stabilizer piece from Pellon Peltex Fusible Sabilizer (71F).
To install the purse feet you will need the extra Bottom Stabilizer piece from the Pellon Peltex Fusible (71F), some Fray Check or clear nail polish, 4 purse feet, and sharp point scissors or an awl.
First make a small slash at each of the markings you made with the Purse Feet Template. This slash should go through the Bottom Panel layers. Keep the slash to less than ¼ inch.
Place a small dot of Fray Check or clear nail polish on one slash; insert the prongs through all layers so the foot portion covers the markings. I recommend working with the Fray Check or nail polish one foot at a time so it doesn’t dry the slash closed before you can insert the purse feet prongs.
On the wrong side of the Bottom Panel, separate the prongs and push tightly against the Bottom Panel to create a snug fit for the purse foot. Repeat for the other three purse feet.
After you have installed all purse feet, insert the extra Bottom Stabilizer piece into the wrong side of the bag. With the fusible side to the wrong side of the Bottom Panel, use a hot iron to press the stabilizer and fuse it to the Bottom Panel, covering the prongs of the purse feet. Use a piece of cloth between the iron and stabilizer to prevent scorching.
The outside of your Bonnie Bucket Bag is now complete.
The last steps to completing your bag will follow soon! Don’t forget to tag your photos as you make progress with your Bonnie Bucket Bag. Use #oahmqg #omqgBonnieBucket and #omqgsewalong and tag the guild with @oahumqg!! I look forward to seeing everyone’s Sew Along progress!!
Now that you have all your pieces cut out, first stitch your main exterior panels right sides together. You will stitch one Main Exterior piece to one Basic Exterior piece as directed in the pattern. Press this seam open. Repeat for the other panels so you have two Main Exterior Panels. I had to press my seam to one side because of the bulk created by the pieced Main Exterior panel. For this reason, I topstitched along one edge of the seam only. You may choose to topstitch both sides of the seam for a more secure seam.
Measure and mark the exterior zipper pocket hole on the wrong side of one Main Exterior panel. Be sure to first mark the center of the panel to start your measurements from.
Pin your fusible facing (SF101) to the right side of the Main Exterior panel with the fusible side away from the right side of the Main Exterior panel.
From the wrong side of the Main Exterior Panel, stitch along the marked line.
Then, cut along the marked center line and diagonal lines.
I like to use a small rotary cutter and ruler to cut the center straight line, then using small sharp scissors I cut the diagonal lines. Turn the facing to the wrong side and press the pocket hole open. I use pins that can be ironed to hold my facing in place while pressing. Remember, the fusible side of the facing will now be to the wrong side of the Main Exterior panel, so once you press the layers they will hold in place and be difficult to remove.
The directions in the pattern are great for assembling the zipped welt pocket. The directions I have here are slightly different because I use Scotch Tape to hold my zipper in place. Please follow the directions in the pattern if you prefer not to use the tape method.
I was taught years ago by my seamstress Grandmother to use Scotch Tape when sewing zippers. Pinning has a tendency to distort the final stitching and the pins can prevent you from getting close to the zipper for good stitches. Scotch Tape has the perfect amount of adhesive and when stitched has a beautiful perforation that makes it so easy to remove from the backing with no remnants of tape left.
First center your pocket welt panel to the wrong side of the Main Exterior panel and pin in place on the front. Flip the Main Exterior panel over and center the zipper over the pocket welt panel, making
sure the metal ends do not align with the edge of the pocket hole where you will be stitching. Also make sure your zipper is facing away from you and toward the pocket welt panel. Place tape over all layers being sure to cross the zipper and pocket welt panel. Pin the very outer ends of the pocket welt panel.
Flip over to the right side of the Main Exterior panel and topstitch along the edge of the pocket hole. I like to increase my stitch length to 3 or 3.5 when topstitching. Using a zipper foot allows me to get close to the zipper without distorting my stitches as I go around the pocket opening. I start my stitching on one side and go around the first two corners. As I approach the bulk of the zipper slider, I stop my needle in the down position and remove a few of the basting stitches in the pocket welt panel in order to slide the zipper behind the zipper foot so I can continue around the last two corners and finish the topstitching.
Remove the remaining basting stitches in the pocket welt panel. Voila!! You have a double welt zipper pocket!
Stitch the pocket lining to the top and bottom of the pocket welt panel. Be sure you are stitching the pocket lining to the pocket welt panel and not the Main Exterior panel.
Press the pocket lining starting from the top. Stitch up the sides of the pocket lining, folding the Main Exterior out of the way to access the pocket lining.
Fold over and press ½ inch of the top of the Bottom Strip. Line up the Bottom Strip with the bottom portion of the Main Exterior Panel, matching the raw edges of the Bottom Strip with the raw edges of the Main Exterior Panel. Pin the Bottom Strip in place.
Topstitch the pressed edge….
….and then baste the remaining edges to the Main Exterior Panel within a ¼ inch of the edge. Repeat for the other Main Exterior Panel. You will stitch through the pocket lining on one of the panels.
You have two Main Exterior Panels ready for bag assembly.
Don’t forget to tag your bags with #oahumqg , #omqgBonnieBucket, #omqgsewalong, #swoonpatterns, and @oahumqg . Looking forward to seeing everyone’s progress!!
The OMQG Bonnie Bucket Bag Sew Along is about to begin! I am thrilled to be hosting this Sew Along for the guild, and hope everyone has fun making this fantastic bag!!I I know some have already completed their bag, but, I wanted to be sure everyone had their pattern before posting any information. Does everyone have the supplies required for the bag? Are there any questions about these supplies? Please post in the OMQG Facebook Group page if you have questions.
If you have an Instagram account please tag @oahumqg with your photos so they will show up on the Oahu Modern Quilt Guild website!! And be sure to use #oahmqg #omqgBonnieBucket and #omqgsewalong with your photos as we go through this together! The plan is to have our finished bags ready for Show & Tell at the March meeting, but remember, this Sew Along is at your own pace!
I would like to share some techniques I have learned which have made my bag making experience easier. With a little preparation, I like to focus on the assembly of my bag. This preparation helps me make more bags from the same pattern in the future, too. I will also be sharing some additional ideas and steps to make your bag a little different than the pattern. These additional steps are not required to finish your bag. I will note where the optional steps are so you can skip them if you prefer.
Now, down to the business of what goes into making the Bonnie Bucket Bag.
Pattern: You will need the pattern….Bonnie Bucket Bag…from Swoon Sewing Patterns. You can choose to download the pattern and print it at home, or order the printed pattern to be delivered through the mail. Yes…the second option is slower, but, the printed patterns are amazing.
Fabric: The pattern requires 1/2 yard of 44 inch wide quilting weight cotton for the main exterior fabric and 1/2 yard of 44 inch wide quilting weight cotton for the basic exterior fabric. You will need to add extra fabric to this if you want have directional fabric to match, or if you want to fussy cut some of your pieces. For the lining you will need 2/3 yard of 44 inch wide quilting weight cotton.
Stabilizer/Interfacing: The pattern calls for 2 1/2 yards of woven fusible interfacing (Pellon Shape-flex SF101 is recommended). You will also need 1/4 yard of heavy sew-in stabilizer (Pellon Peltex 70 is recommended. I will be using Pellon Peltex 71F which has a fusible side)
Notions & Hardware: In addition to the fabric you have selected for your bag, there is a variety of supplies and notions that go into making your bag unique and functional. Some of the supplies you will see in my photos may be different than what you have gathered for your bag. Please feel free to comment and ask questions about any of these supplies. I am only sharing the supplies I am familiar with and know how to use. If you have your own supplies and notions you are familiar with, please use those. There is no requirement for you to use the supplies and notions I am using to construct my bag.
I choose to use 40 wt. Aurifil Mako Cotton thread. It is a bit thicker than average, works well for assembling my bag, and looks great for the topstitching. And it comes in some GREAT colors!! A thicker thread will require a larger needle, so I use a Microtex or Topstitch size 90/14 needle.
The pattern says you will need a 15 inch all-purpose zipper. I am choosing to use a purse zipper which is very similar to an all-purpose zipper, except it has two sliders that meet head to head, so you can open your purse from either end.
There are lots of choices for the strap rings/loops that connect your purse to the strap. You can use O rings, rectangle rings/loops, or D rings. The rectangle loops I am using are 26mm/1 inch with a nickel finish.
I will be adding purse feet to the bottom of my bag. Near the end of the bag construction I will be showing the steps I use to attach these to the bag. You will need a Fray Check, nail polish, or similar product for application to the fabric when installing the purse feet. Purse feet also come in many sizes and colors, but I only add purse feet to bags that have a flat bottom where a piece of Peltex 71F is used. This type of super stiff interfacing is perfect for attaching the feet and provides a sturdy base for the feet to support. Again, this is an optional step and not required for you to finish your bag.
Preparing the pattern pieces (OPTIONAL):
I don’t like cutting my fabrics on the fold when a pattern piece requires it. I prefer to make a mirror image of the pattern piece and tape it together with the main pattern piece to make a whole pattern piece. This also enables me to fussy cut pattern pieces if I am using a print fabric, and makes it easier to match directional fabric.
The technique I use is to trace the pattern onto plain printer paper with a black ultra-fine sharpie. I turn the traced image over and retrace my lines onto the back of the paper so it becomes a mirror image of the pattern piece. The sharpie will bleed through the printer paper just enough for you to see the lines you traced, but, not so much to mark up the main pattern piece. Then, using double sided tape, I attach the pattern piece to main pattern piece where it says FOLD.
After I have traced, and taped all my pattern pieces and parts, I apply clear contact paper to the right side of the pattern pieces for stability. If you would like to use adhesive shelf liner, you can apply it to the back of the pattern piece so you can still see the pattern marks and directions. This makes the pattern pieces a little bit stiffer and they become tracing templates so I don’t need to use pins. I cut my pattern pieces out after the contact paper is firmly adhered to the paper.
Preparing your fabric (OPTIONAL):
For some the preparation of the fabric will be minimal. For others it will require more work depending on what you want your bag to look like. I have chosen to create 2 of the panels from pieced 60 degree triangles. It took a while to complete this panel, but, I think the look will be worth it.
I have also found it to be very helpful to iron the woven fusible to my fabric pieces BEFORE I cut them out. There are some exceptions to this with this pattern: The Bottom Panel, Handle Connectors, Pocket Panel, Bottom Strip and Pocket Welts. Basically the Main & Basic Exterior Panels and lining pieces are the only fabrics that I have ironed the woven fusible to. Then, I use a Frixion pen to trace the pattern pieces on the wrong side (the side with fusible on it) before cutting. I am terrible with pins and constantly poking myself with them, and this eliminates the need for pins when cutting out pattern pieces. The pattern pieces last longer to without all the pin holes in them. Also, this technique eliminates one step of cutting since the woven fusible interfacing is already ironed onto the fabric. WIN!!WIN!!
So, hopefully everyone will have their fabric cut out, and all the interfacing fused and ready for the first steps to constructing the bag! I will announce on the OMQG Facebook Group page when the next steps are posted so everyone can follow along. I can’t wait to see all teh different Bonnie’s we will be making…..let’s get stitchin’!!